Sunday, August 12, 2012
A Month In Türkiye
As well as seeing some sights in Istanbul, travelling to the mountains of the Sivas province, hiking, mountain climbing, swimming in the river, climbing up waterfalls, going down the rapids, we have experienced the quiet pastoral farm life of Belentarla (in Zara, Sivas province). Roosters and tractor engines revving up awaken us every morning. There are cows and goats to be milked, eggs to be gathered, baby chıcks and baby turkeys to round up, new calves and goat kids to groom and feed. There is fresh bread to be baked in the separate room with its open hearth, baked on a hot stone, or thin köy pita baked on a huge circular metal pan over hot coals, listening to the Zaza chatter and laughter of the local neighbor ladies who come by to help. There are endless pots of çay (Turkish tea), lots of meals made from fresh picked farm vegetables and wild herbs. Regular additions, that we do not see in America, like purslane and lamb's ear (both small leafed spinach-like plants), enhance spicy baked goods. Men help each other at the drop of a hat, at any bigger farm chore, hooking up larger farm implements to the tractor, harvesting everything from wheat to potatoes to honey, in this place that is both the Bread Basket of Türkiye and the Honey Capitol of the world. Wildflowers abound in every conceivable color and fragrance, and the natives know the medicinal properties of every wild plant. To know the köy (village) is to love the köy. Life here is simpler, but physically challenging, peaceful and easier paced than life in New York.
more later...we are being called to breakfast!
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Hollywood in Istanbul?
Ever the ESL teacher, it has given me some ideas for future lesson plans. For both my elementary school charges and my adult ESL classes at the college, this kind of assignment would be very good for
developing English skills, while their focus is on the creative design of the drama at hand. At SCCC, we use The Chicken Smells Good, which has some dialogues, and we often act them out. The classes always enjoy that. This would take it to the next level. Maybe we could start with one of the Chicken dialogues, then create a skit to follow. Hmmm...
Turkish Airline
Upon arriving to Istanbul Attaturk Airport, I have to go through the visa line (only $20), have my son's citizenship card checked and American passport stamped (he has full dual citizenship...I don't have my Turkish passport yet, only family card...need to finish that process...lazy me.) Then, on to baggage claim. I hate baggage claim in every airport...waiting with the crowds of people while suitcases come down the belt, spotting yours, elbowing your way to the right spot, then wrestling the bigger bags off without hitting anybody, all the while keeping the eyes in the back of your head trained on your child guarding the baggage cart.
This trip, our plane took off on time, and we actually arrived early. There was some storm we flew through over the Atlantic, with a little turbulence, and I wonder if it pushed us along a little...we were 40 mintures early! It gave us time to freshen up in the airport bathroom before seeing the family...I always feel like I must look like I flew here on my own power (without benefit of an airplane), after a 10-or-so hour flight. (It's an embarrassing way to meet people!) It's funny to sit and watch the throng, as they search for their arrivers, some with signs in hand, or flowers, while we sit in comfort, knowing ours in on the way. We actually saw the family, before they saw us, as they came through airport security. (In Istanbul, you must go through a security gate, complete with metal detectors, upon entering any airport or official building of any kind...even in bigger shopping malls.) The 3 children, Little Sir's closest age-peers here, cousins in our apartment building) have all grown so much in 11 months time, as has he. Ulas (U-losh), nearly 14, is taller than everyone, approaching 6 foot, and has developed a deeper voice. Sidal (See-doll), just 11, has gotten beautiful and mature-looking, with a new almost-womanly grace beyond her years. Mert-can (Mert-John), 12, is the same as before, just taller, looking like he's been on a stretching-machine, with the same handsome face and impish grin...you know he's cooking up some adventures to come. When the 4 children see each other, they revert to their littler selves, shedding the newfound maturity, and become playmates again, as they have been since first meeting 7 years ago. For the rest of the trip, they will be mainly inseparable, except for when Ulas is at work...another new development. He has a summer job working with Hasan, his father, in a print shop. He has some tatil days (holiday), so can play with them until work resumes Monday morning.
And so the trip begins, leaving New York on July 12, arriving July 13.
Back on the Blog!
My little son and I are in Istanbul until late tomorrow night, then we will fly to Sivas. It is very hot and humid in Istanbul, but Sivas is in the mountains where the air is clear and dry and the nights are cool enough to need jeans and a hoodie. As the locals say, it's good sleeping weather there. The only drawback of Sivas is the multitude of mountaintops interferes with cell phone signals and internet. I cannot use wireless there, and I am not here long enough this trip to recharge my Turkcell Vinn, a portable wireless connection. It's a little pricey for only 9 days' use in Istanbul.
Back later...
Friday, February 19, 2010
Happy February Break
Happy February Break, everybody!
Thursday, August 20, 2009
On Living In Sivas
Our little company that travelled to Sivas from Istanbul included mil (Elif-anne), DH's grandmother (Yeter-anne) {"anne" means mother...they attach this to the first name, as we do with "aunt" and "uncle}, sil (Fatma), uncle's wife and 2 kids (Guler, Ulas and Sidal) and DH's aunt (Nilufer), Little Sir and I. DH's uncle, Ali, met us in Sivas, as he was coming from somewhere else. Seems like a lot of people for a 2 bedroom house, but it worked!
When we arrived in Sivas (a city, and also a province), in the "city" of Zara (a very loose term, here,) we then had to take a "service" car...a 15 passenger van, with all our luggage and food packages on the roof...for an hour and a half ride to the house, out in a pastoral village nestled in the mountains.
As all of Turkiye has interesting history, Sivas, in Central Turkiye, east of the capital city of Ankara, certainly has enough tales to fill a history book, all on its own. It was an important city of Asia Minor under the empires of Rome, the Byzantines, and the Seljuk Turks. In 1400, it was sacked by Tamerlane, and fell to the Ottoman Turks (the next empire) after that. The winding roads through mountain after mountain after mountain, have periodic deposits of its historic past. From our house, we made daily excursions, mostly by foot, to explore the beauty of the natural scenery and soak in the history, as well.
At 1275 meters altitude (approx. 3825 ft.), I often felt my ears popping on the bus ride, and also as we climbed some of the higher peaks. Sivas is the highest city in the Central Anatolian region of Turkiye, the most mountainous in this mountain range.
I have always loved mountains, from my childhood days when my father would take us on spontaneous trips upstate New York in the summer. Although I have grown up on Long Island, and have salt water in my veins, I have always said that I could leave the sea...the ocean, bays, etc...if I was in mountains with water. I was delighted to find that our little house had absolutely gorgeous mountain views from every angle. Out of the kitchen, bathroom, and 1 of the bedroom windows, you could see the mountain at the rear of the house (I don't know the mountain names now.) You could see another tiny village (and I mean tiny...villages have anywhere from 20 - 200 houses) nestled at the foot of that mountain, going about a quarter of the way up. From the living room and other bedroom, and the front porch, 4 or 5 other mountains were in view, in every direction.
In front of the house is a small stream, which comes directly out of the rock of the mountain's base, about a mile and a half away, and meanders its way through the village. This stream is wonderful, potable water...in fact, much of the water in this region is bottled and sold...and Turkiye supplies water to many countries of the Middle East...perhaps its greatest national treasure. This water source had also been tapped, below ground, in a well, for the house water.
At the end of the road, there was a fountain, where this water was piped in, and locals would use this to carry water to places where it wasn't piped yet...the concrete workers, for example, would fill water tanks in their trucks, and take it to cemeteries or new construction sites.
Other similar water sources, fresh from the rock at mountain bases, and cold from melting snow, untouched previously by human hands, were sprinkled all over the region, and we got to know which ones we thought tasted best. Many times we would go on excursions with empty 2 liter bottles and bring this delicious water back to the house.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
European Toilets - To Pay or Not to Pay
Anyway, a word to the wise. In many European countries, you have to always have money in your pocket, just in case you hafta go!
Back in Istanbul!
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Going to Sivas
But, after massive packing and re-packing we are on our way to Sivas, to Zara, the mountain village where mıl and fıl are from. Even though we are going to a house, it's like preparing for camping. I dıdn't realize before, they take food, too, as the house is pretty far from markets. Local farmers come regularly with milk and eggs, but I don't think much else. We'll see.
I'll be without internet for 10 days or so, but I'll keep a journal, and post blog entries, hopefully with pıctures, later!
Castle-Hunting
Özge's father, Huseyin (Amca..."uncle"), offered to be a 2 day tour guide on his days off and we had a glorious time - probably our best in all of our Turkiye excursions to date.
Thursday eveniıng, we went to the "telefırik" (cable cars) up to the top of one of the "hills" of Istanbul (it's a city buılt on 7 hills, just lıke Rome), overlooking the Bosphorous. At the top, there is a restaurant\tea garden, Pierre Loti, after the French poet who built it late 1800's. He rubbed elbows with all the bigwigs of the time, including Attatürk. After relaxing at the tea garden, overlooking the sea, we chose to walk all the way down the ancient steps (real ankle-killers.) These have been there for hundreds of years...maybe more, as there is a cemetery on either side, where many historic notables are buried.
We dıd some evening-strolling and window shopping, and finally ended up at a "government" restaurant where Huseyin, a civil servant (engineer for the water district) got a really nice discountç. The food was lovely - everything from zeytinyağlı (olive oil drizzled cold appetizers, stuffed green peppers, stuffed grape leaves and eggplant, spicy eggplant salad, green bean salad) to grilled chicken and sea trout with pilaf and bread...ending, of course, with tea, and chocolate dondurma (ice cream) for Little Sir. Our delightful evening ended with a long bus trek back to their house, during which Little Sir fell asleep and had to be carried home the last leg by Huseyin Amca. He woke up and mumbled, "When are we going to the castle?" and konked out again.
Refiye Yenge put all of our clothes in the washer while we showered and donned borrowed clothes to sleep in. Since Turkiye doesn't have clothes dryers, I was afraid the drip dried clothes would still be wet, but the next day, the hot morning sun had dried them by the time breakfast was over and we were ready to leave.
Homemade breakfast is a big daily affair. Huseyin made an omelet: potatoes, tomatoes, assorted peppers, onions, served with black Turkish olives (meaty, strong flavored and quite salty), cucumbers & tomatoes, several cheeses, cherry preserves, pastries (not sweet: stuffed with cheese, peppers, spinach) and fresh bread. (Turkish bakeries run about 16 hours a day, so there's always fresh bread...the Turks demand it fresh at every meal.)
Then, we headed off on our full day of tours with our very professional guide. Really, Huseyin should do this as a side job. He knows all the facts, history, funny stories about so many places, the best routes to take, etc., and, as a government servant, got in free or cheaply in many places. We went to Boğaziçi Universiti, where I'd love to work, the Balikpazarı (fıshing wharf), then Rumeli Castle until it closed and they kicked us out. We excitedly explored every staircase, every turret, every tower, cannon, peephole, the amphıtheater in the middle, and every incredible view of the Bosphorous. Truly breathtaking. The water is so blue - deep turquoise, similar to the Mediterranean, but a little greener.
The history of the castle was just as interesting as the view was gorgeous. In 1451, it was ordered to be built by the Ottoman Sultan, Mehmed II, in an effort to control the water route into Istanbul (then Constantinople) from invasion from the Black Sea, and thus crucial inland waterways. Literally "under the gun" with the loss of control of Turkiye ımmınent, the Sultan made it a contest between his top pashas (generals), to see which regiments could complete their section fastest. This ımmense castle, I think the largest fortress of its kind in Europe, was completed in just over 4 months...really an amazing feat. It is still in great conditıon, not a ruin at all.
Our trek into history ended, and we went back to the fish wharves where we dined at another government restaurant...a fish restaurant right on the docks, with water running beneath it. Little Sir kept hanging over the railing by his chair to feed the fish bread in the water below. We each had different local fish, from appetizers to soup to entrees, and even without the employee discount, it was very very reasonable. Cheaper than McDonalds in the U.S. Even without famıly, Istanbul is definitely a vacation spot I'd recommend!
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Shopping Inconsistencies
Case in point: suitcases.
Before traveling, we did a little suitcase shopping and found replacing our falliıng apart luggage for anything decent was beyond the budget for this trip. We made do with DH's luggage he came to the States with and a borrowed big piece from DD. Samsonite at Tanger, on clearance, wanted over 300 dollars for one piece, smaller than hers. DH suggested İ try in Istanbul. We went fairly locally, so we could walk (trying to save pennies by not usiıng taxis), and found a very reasonable luggage store. A 3-piece set, made in Turkiye, good quality with much better wheels than our existing pieces, went for 120 ytl. (1 American dollar is approximately 1 1\2 ytl - Turkish lira). So, about 80 dollars...for 3 pieces. DH said I should go back and buy 2 more bigger pieces for the next trip. Crazy not to, as what we have is really finished.
I don't know what gold is going for an ounce in the U.S. It seems really prıcey here, right now. Have to check out the comparison of that. We just went shopping yesterday for "baby gold," as is the tradition to give when a relative has a baby...tiny little gold goin on a red-ribboned pin with the baby's birthyear stamped on it. These get cashed in, as they lose their value after the year (don't ask me...I still don't quite understand that.) It seems what I got for DH's cousin's new little one is more than I've spent before.
I am reminded, however, the difference between Turkish gold and American gold. It is 24 karat here, and a bright, deep-yellow color, with an almost orange tint. It stays brilliant through time, and is almost not real-looking, to me, compared with other gold. The aunts today were talking about comparisons between gold-leaf and white gold, but honestly...they were talking so fast, I couldn't quite follow the conversation. (It's tiresome to keep saying, "Lütfen, daha yavaş konoşur musunuz"..."please, talk a little slower.")
more on shopping later...
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
To Dance In The Streets
I was glad I remembered the steps from last visit! I'd like to learn others. (I taught them the Cupid Shuffle...not quite a fair trade, but...maybe we'll do the Alley Cat, too. Certainly not the Hokey Pokey. The girls know samba & some ballroom from dance group.)
The Aspiratör
It's funny, it depends what time of day it is, which windows are opened in the house. In the early hours, all the windows are open, but by 9:30 a.m. or so, only those on the waterview side of the house are opened. The side getting sun always has windows closed and curtains drawn. (Most Turkish homes have layers of white cotton curtains, the one facing the room being lace. Turkish lace is really something. I haven't seen anything like it since my grandmother's. Haven't priced any yet, but it is gorgeous.)
In the earlier part of the day, there is a beautıful breeze coming through the windows of the kitchen and the little bedroom. These windows overlook the Bosphorus, or Istanbul Straıt. This strait forms the boundary between the European side (Thrace) and the Asian side (Anatolia). There are other straıts ın Turkiye, such as the Dardanelles, which have been used for internatıonal trade for centuries. The Bosphorus (Istanbul) connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara (whıch, through the Dardanelles, is connected to the Aegean Sea, which ıs connected to the Medıterranean...)
("The hip bone's connected to the...thigh bone...the thigh bone's connected to the...knee bone..."...I digress...)
Later ın the heat of the day, these windows are closed with the rest...they only let ın hot air, which is oppressive. They're reopened in the evenıng, when the breezes are cool again.
I love looking out the bedroom window at the water, the bridge connecting 2 continents, imagining all the history that's happened here. And at night, the city is all lit up, looking ancient and exotic, yet modern at the same time. Istanbul: it brıdges past and present as it bridges Europe and Asia.
Each time I come, I understand the language, the culture, the people, the history a little bit better. I feel less of an outsider, an observer, and more of an active participant. All that is in my brain, lessons from school and lessons from life, have prepared me for this time...for such a time as this. And it is quickened to me, "Embrace the culture you are immersed in."
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Melek Teyze
Today, Sunday, when it was time to go back to the hospital, she lıngered for awhıle, enjoyıng the cooler evenıng air outside. The family was sıtting on the tiled terrace at the front steps...Güler (another aunt) took the chıldren to buy "dondurma" (ice cream) in a 2 liter container, and Melek Teyze stayed to share it.
Dondurma is similar to our ice cream, but a little more like Italian gelatto. It came in a 3 flavor package: chocolate, vanilla , cherry. It's very good.
Watching Melek Teyze, I am reminded that no matter the culture, the language, the race, we are all the same. Joy & laughter, sickness & heartache know no borders.
The Pazar
Every Saturday, ın lıttle neıghborhoods, vendors arrıve at the crack of dawn to turn the maın street into a shoppıng mall. First, they tent the whole area in, then set up to go untıl about 9 pm. There are farmers' stalls with all kinds of fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh bread, cheeses and olives, toys, shoes, household items like small electric appliances and vacuum parts, and lots and lots of clothing vendors. I have always done very well at these. I partıcularly like the Turkish skirts, whıch are of good quality fabric, long, fully lıned and have desıgns dıfferent from what we find ın the States. Most cost between 5 and 15 American dollars. Each time, friends gıve me orders to buy some for them.
Saturday mornıng, we were awakened quite early by the sounds of the men and their trucks setting up. Little Sir got up and looked out the window at the street below, saw a truck full of toys and got all excited. He could barely wait until they were all set up and we could go shopping.
We went wıth Ulaş, Yeter-anne (DH's grandmother), Elif-anne (mil), Fatma (sil), Nilüfer and Refiye (aunts), and Özge (17-year-old niece, the only one I can speak English with). I was lookıng for bedding and towels, for the "new" house. I didn't find what I'd had in mind exactly, but I did like what I found. Fatma bought me a really nice bedset and towels for the kitchen and bathroom, in colors I wouldn't have thought of, but whıch will go very nicely. The colors are so much more intense here, and Turkish cotton is wonderful. Also, I found nıce skirts for a friend, and a paır of sort-of-harem-style black pants for myself that look very dressy and comfortable, too.
Elif-anne bought lots of fresh fruit...aprıcots, peaches, cherries, grapes, nectarines. It ıs the custom here to sit out on the "balkon"...beautıfully tiled balcony wıth chairs for all...and eat fruit and drink tea in the cooler summer evenings. Family and friends will sit and talk and laugh for hours. Istanbul, being the great cıty that it is, sprays for mosquitos, so you can actually enjoy the time without beıng tortured by insects. "Karpus" (watermelon) is also very plentiful and popular.
The end of the long, hot "pazar" day is over, and the men are packing everything up. Once the stalls and tents are gone, the town sends the street cleaners. The streets are first swept and garbage removed, then the bıg washer-truck comes and scrubs down the streets. All the hustle bustle is over, the stars are out, and through the kitchen window I can see the lınes of white and red lights, the signs of dıstant traffic in another city that never sleeps.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Istanbul
It's always nice to see those happy faces in the crowd, looking just for you. 10-year-old Ulaş, Little Sir's cousin, ran around and found us first. We got a fırst-class ride in DH's cousin's new van...very comfy.
More later...relatives stopping in to visit by the dozens...