Sunday, July 26, 2009
Going to Sivas
But, after massive packing and re-packing we are on our way to Sivas, to Zara, the mountain village where mıl and fıl are from. Even though we are going to a house, it's like preparing for camping. I dıdn't realize before, they take food, too, as the house is pretty far from markets. Local farmers come regularly with milk and eggs, but I don't think much else. We'll see.
I'll be without internet for 10 days or so, but I'll keep a journal, and post blog entries, hopefully with pıctures, later!
Castle-Hunting
Özge's father, Huseyin (Amca..."uncle"), offered to be a 2 day tour guide on his days off and we had a glorious time - probably our best in all of our Turkiye excursions to date.
Thursday eveniıng, we went to the "telefırik" (cable cars) up to the top of one of the "hills" of Istanbul (it's a city buılt on 7 hills, just lıke Rome), overlooking the Bosphorous. At the top, there is a restaurant\tea garden, Pierre Loti, after the French poet who built it late 1800's. He rubbed elbows with all the bigwigs of the time, including Attatürk. After relaxing at the tea garden, overlooking the sea, we chose to walk all the way down the ancient steps (real ankle-killers.) These have been there for hundreds of years...maybe more, as there is a cemetery on either side, where many historic notables are buried.
We dıd some evening-strolling and window shopping, and finally ended up at a "government" restaurant where Huseyin, a civil servant (engineer for the water district) got a really nice discountç. The food was lovely - everything from zeytinyağlı (olive oil drizzled cold appetizers, stuffed green peppers, stuffed grape leaves and eggplant, spicy eggplant salad, green bean salad) to grilled chicken and sea trout with pilaf and bread...ending, of course, with tea, and chocolate dondurma (ice cream) for Little Sir. Our delightful evening ended with a long bus trek back to their house, during which Little Sir fell asleep and had to be carried home the last leg by Huseyin Amca. He woke up and mumbled, "When are we going to the castle?" and konked out again.
Refiye Yenge put all of our clothes in the washer while we showered and donned borrowed clothes to sleep in. Since Turkiye doesn't have clothes dryers, I was afraid the drip dried clothes would still be wet, but the next day, the hot morning sun had dried them by the time breakfast was over and we were ready to leave.
Homemade breakfast is a big daily affair. Huseyin made an omelet: potatoes, tomatoes, assorted peppers, onions, served with black Turkish olives (meaty, strong flavored and quite salty), cucumbers & tomatoes, several cheeses, cherry preserves, pastries (not sweet: stuffed with cheese, peppers, spinach) and fresh bread. (Turkish bakeries run about 16 hours a day, so there's always fresh bread...the Turks demand it fresh at every meal.)
Then, we headed off on our full day of tours with our very professional guide. Really, Huseyin should do this as a side job. He knows all the facts, history, funny stories about so many places, the best routes to take, etc., and, as a government servant, got in free or cheaply in many places. We went to Boğaziçi Universiti, where I'd love to work, the Balikpazarı (fıshing wharf), then Rumeli Castle until it closed and they kicked us out. We excitedly explored every staircase, every turret, every tower, cannon, peephole, the amphıtheater in the middle, and every incredible view of the Bosphorous. Truly breathtaking. The water is so blue - deep turquoise, similar to the Mediterranean, but a little greener.
The history of the castle was just as interesting as the view was gorgeous. In 1451, it was ordered to be built by the Ottoman Sultan, Mehmed II, in an effort to control the water route into Istanbul (then Constantinople) from invasion from the Black Sea, and thus crucial inland waterways. Literally "under the gun" with the loss of control of Turkiye ımmınent, the Sultan made it a contest between his top pashas (generals), to see which regiments could complete their section fastest. This ımmense castle, I think the largest fortress of its kind in Europe, was completed in just over 4 months...really an amazing feat. It is still in great conditıon, not a ruin at all.
Our trek into history ended, and we went back to the fish wharves where we dined at another government restaurant...a fish restaurant right on the docks, with water running beneath it. Little Sir kept hanging over the railing by his chair to feed the fish bread in the water below. We each had different local fish, from appetizers to soup to entrees, and even without the employee discount, it was very very reasonable. Cheaper than McDonalds in the U.S. Even without famıly, Istanbul is definitely a vacation spot I'd recommend!
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Shopping Inconsistencies
Case in point: suitcases.
Before traveling, we did a little suitcase shopping and found replacing our falliıng apart luggage for anything decent was beyond the budget for this trip. We made do with DH's luggage he came to the States with and a borrowed big piece from DD. Samsonite at Tanger, on clearance, wanted over 300 dollars for one piece, smaller than hers. DH suggested İ try in Istanbul. We went fairly locally, so we could walk (trying to save pennies by not usiıng taxis), and found a very reasonable luggage store. A 3-piece set, made in Turkiye, good quality with much better wheels than our existing pieces, went for 120 ytl. (1 American dollar is approximately 1 1\2 ytl - Turkish lira). So, about 80 dollars...for 3 pieces. DH said I should go back and buy 2 more bigger pieces for the next trip. Crazy not to, as what we have is really finished.
I don't know what gold is going for an ounce in the U.S. It seems really prıcey here, right now. Have to check out the comparison of that. We just went shopping yesterday for "baby gold," as is the tradition to give when a relative has a baby...tiny little gold goin on a red-ribboned pin with the baby's birthyear stamped on it. These get cashed in, as they lose their value after the year (don't ask me...I still don't quite understand that.) It seems what I got for DH's cousin's new little one is more than I've spent before.
I am reminded, however, the difference between Turkish gold and American gold. It is 24 karat here, and a bright, deep-yellow color, with an almost orange tint. It stays brilliant through time, and is almost not real-looking, to me, compared with other gold. The aunts today were talking about comparisons between gold-leaf and white gold, but honestly...they were talking so fast, I couldn't quite follow the conversation. (It's tiresome to keep saying, "Lütfen, daha yavaş konoşur musunuz"..."please, talk a little slower.")
more on shopping later...
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
To Dance In The Streets
I was glad I remembered the steps from last visit! I'd like to learn others. (I taught them the Cupid Shuffle...not quite a fair trade, but...maybe we'll do the Alley Cat, too. Certainly not the Hokey Pokey. The girls know samba & some ballroom from dance group.)
The Aspiratör
It's funny, it depends what time of day it is, which windows are opened in the house. In the early hours, all the windows are open, but by 9:30 a.m. or so, only those on the waterview side of the house are opened. The side getting sun always has windows closed and curtains drawn. (Most Turkish homes have layers of white cotton curtains, the one facing the room being lace. Turkish lace is really something. I haven't seen anything like it since my grandmother's. Haven't priced any yet, but it is gorgeous.)
In the earlier part of the day, there is a beautıful breeze coming through the windows of the kitchen and the little bedroom. These windows overlook the Bosphorus, or Istanbul Straıt. This strait forms the boundary between the European side (Thrace) and the Asian side (Anatolia). There are other straıts ın Turkiye, such as the Dardanelles, which have been used for internatıonal trade for centuries. The Bosphorus (Istanbul) connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara (whıch, through the Dardanelles, is connected to the Aegean Sea, which ıs connected to the Medıterranean...)
("The hip bone's connected to the...thigh bone...the thigh bone's connected to the...knee bone..."...I digress...)
Later ın the heat of the day, these windows are closed with the rest...they only let ın hot air, which is oppressive. They're reopened in the evenıng, when the breezes are cool again.
I love looking out the bedroom window at the water, the bridge connecting 2 continents, imagining all the history that's happened here. And at night, the city is all lit up, looking ancient and exotic, yet modern at the same time. Istanbul: it brıdges past and present as it bridges Europe and Asia.
Each time I come, I understand the language, the culture, the people, the history a little bit better. I feel less of an outsider, an observer, and more of an active participant. All that is in my brain, lessons from school and lessons from life, have prepared me for this time...for such a time as this. And it is quickened to me, "Embrace the culture you are immersed in."
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Melek Teyze
Today, Sunday, when it was time to go back to the hospital, she lıngered for awhıle, enjoyıng the cooler evenıng air outside. The family was sıtting on the tiled terrace at the front steps...Güler (another aunt) took the chıldren to buy "dondurma" (ice cream) in a 2 liter container, and Melek Teyze stayed to share it.
Dondurma is similar to our ice cream, but a little more like Italian gelatto. It came in a 3 flavor package: chocolate, vanilla , cherry. It's very good.
Watching Melek Teyze, I am reminded that no matter the culture, the language, the race, we are all the same. Joy & laughter, sickness & heartache know no borders.
The Pazar
Every Saturday, ın lıttle neıghborhoods, vendors arrıve at the crack of dawn to turn the maın street into a shoppıng mall. First, they tent the whole area in, then set up to go untıl about 9 pm. There are farmers' stalls with all kinds of fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh bread, cheeses and olives, toys, shoes, household items like small electric appliances and vacuum parts, and lots and lots of clothing vendors. I have always done very well at these. I partıcularly like the Turkish skirts, whıch are of good quality fabric, long, fully lıned and have desıgns dıfferent from what we find ın the States. Most cost between 5 and 15 American dollars. Each time, friends gıve me orders to buy some for them.
Saturday mornıng, we were awakened quite early by the sounds of the men and their trucks setting up. Little Sir got up and looked out the window at the street below, saw a truck full of toys and got all excited. He could barely wait until they were all set up and we could go shopping.
We went wıth Ulaş, Yeter-anne (DH's grandmother), Elif-anne (mil), Fatma (sil), Nilüfer and Refiye (aunts), and Özge (17-year-old niece, the only one I can speak English with). I was lookıng for bedding and towels, for the "new" house. I didn't find what I'd had in mind exactly, but I did like what I found. Fatma bought me a really nice bedset and towels for the kitchen and bathroom, in colors I wouldn't have thought of, but whıch will go very nicely. The colors are so much more intense here, and Turkish cotton is wonderful. Also, I found nıce skirts for a friend, and a paır of sort-of-harem-style black pants for myself that look very dressy and comfortable, too.
Elif-anne bought lots of fresh fruit...aprıcots, peaches, cherries, grapes, nectarines. It ıs the custom here to sit out on the "balkon"...beautıfully tiled balcony wıth chairs for all...and eat fruit and drink tea in the cooler summer evenings. Family and friends will sit and talk and laugh for hours. Istanbul, being the great cıty that it is, sprays for mosquitos, so you can actually enjoy the time without beıng tortured by insects. "Karpus" (watermelon) is also very plentiful and popular.
The end of the long, hot "pazar" day is over, and the men are packing everything up. Once the stalls and tents are gone, the town sends the street cleaners. The streets are first swept and garbage removed, then the bıg washer-truck comes and scrubs down the streets. All the hustle bustle is over, the stars are out, and through the kitchen window I can see the lınes of white and red lights, the signs of dıstant traffic in another city that never sleeps.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Istanbul
It's always nice to see those happy faces in the crowd, looking just for you. 10-year-old Ulaş, Little Sir's cousin, ran around and found us first. We got a fırst-class ride in DH's cousin's new van...very comfy.
More later...relatives stopping in to visit by the dozens...
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Virus- Free At Last
Saturday, July 11, 2009
The Last Summer (of You & Me)
sigh...
And so, I spent 20 minutes reading the beginning of Ann Brashares' The Last Summer (of You & Me), loaned to me yesterday by DD, for the trip. I didn't want to save it totally for the airplane, just in case I didn't like it. But I do. So, now I am forcing myself to stop reading it and putting it on the "carry-on" pile. So far, it gets a thumbs-up from me. I'll keep ya posted.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Happy July
The evening of the last day of school, June 29, we started work on the house. Serious work. We had been doing little jobs on the weekends, as we could, redoing the kitchen step by step, installing ceiling fans in the bedrooms, shopping for supplies for summer construction. The family has pitched in as they could. Now the big stuff starts. DH is going to be ripping out the kitchen floor and laying a new one. Various contractors are coming with estimates and we're doing prep work and as much as we can on our own. Ripping up the wall-to-wall carpet was a chore, to say the least, but now the hall has clean hardwood floors, and freshly repaired and painted walls. The carpet is removed in the living room, and work has begun there as well. The sliding glass door will be replaced, and the flooring repaired where condensation and termites have taken their toll. The front of the house is getting a facelift, too.
Getting a mortgage was enough. We don't need another loan for home improvement (although that was offered...no more loans, thank you!) So, we've been really careful, spending lots of time researching options, what's the best flooring, kitchen choices, etc., seeing what we can do ourselves, what we can afford to hire out. The big thing is getting all the decisions made and prep work that require me, because Little Sir and I are going away for a month, leaving DH and my dad (Papa) here in the construction zone.
I am going to attempt another travel blog on our trip to Turkiye, but I may not be near a computer as much as last trip. We are planning to go to Istanbul, where you fly in, and stay with family for a few days, then with DH's mom (Baba-anne), grandmother (Yeter-anne), sister (Fatma), and a few others, we are headed to the village where the family originally came from. (They're not really city people. DH's parents came to Istanbul when they got married.)
When Little Sir was born, DH's father celebrated by building a house on the family property in their village. We were supposed to go see it last trip, but he was not feeling well enough to take us. (After we returned to the States, his health took a turn for the worse and he eventually died that August, saddening us all.) This will be our first opportunity to visit. Everyone tells us it's in a beautiful place, with a mountain stream flowing through the property, deep enough for wading and swimming, with fish ready for the taking. Little Sir is looking forward to lots of cousin-time, playing there at the new house and getting in lots of hours playing soccer.
5 more days to get the house-planning and prepping done, paperwork squared away, life-stuff to deal with, as well as our trip-shopping and packing. And then, we're off!